Spring Startup Tips for your RPS Solar Well Pump
Spring Start Up for owners of the RPS 200-800, 400V-800V, or 400N
A quick guide of the most common spring startup questions for solar well pumps – about 90% of the calls we get this time of year. For quick questions, we have also launched a new Text Support line at 530-240-3825 and lots of new resources and videos at RPSsolarpumps.com/help or call us at 888-637-4493
Where is your pump right now?
PUMP REMOVED FROM WELL
If you had pulled out the pump for the winter, we recommend a quick barrel test before dropping downwell again. Make sure the pump is fully submerged and ensure steady flow and pressure by placing a hand over the outlet. Most times it is fine, but if output or pressure seem a little low, some folks swap in a new Helical Rotor Pumping Mechanism for the season.
PUMP IS STILL IN THE WELL
Most folks leave their solar pumps off or disconnected in the well for the winter. Depending on your water chemistry and iron content, sometimes there is mineral buildup on the Helical Rotor Pumping Mechanism or low water sensor. If the pump is not easy to pull, power up in full sun the first pumping of the season to ensure the pump has maximum power to shake off any iron buildup.
You can request a free Helical Rotor Pumping Mechanism to swap in or have as a spare by texting ‘Rotor’ to 530-240-3825 and we’ll take care of you. There was also a included spare in your original kit, in a blue or black bag. Videos of Helical Rotor replacements for both the 3” and 2” pumps can be found at RPSsolarpumps.com/help
Other Common Spring Troubleshooting
No Lights on Controller?
Make sure Solar Wire connections are tight! Check and ensure DC voltage over 36V and under 90V at the solar terminals of controller, P+ P-. If not, track back to each panel with your multimeter.
Low Power Light
Most common fix, check that the power dial is turned to 10 (full power). Double check that all three pump wires are tight in the controller terminals.
Tank Full Light On
Over the winter the wire to the Tank Sensor may become damaged or freeze/thaw cycles might have damaged the Sensor probe. Not to worry! Pull the sensor wires out of the controller terminals, look for repairable wire damage. If nothing is obvious, we can send you another.
Green Lights, No Water
If a pump was left ON in the winter or deadheaded into frozen pipes, sometimes the pumping mechanism might be worn down, meaning the pump can’t build sufficient pressure and volume. Replacing the mech is usually the fix. Request a free spare, instructions above.